There are bankers and chocolatiers on Paradeplatz, practically side by side. You can wander in Münsterhof Square and Schipfe for a whiff of Old Switzerland, admire Chagall's 30-foot-high stained-glass windows at the Fraumünster church, stop by for some fondue at a café in Niederdorf, and pop into the Sprüngli confectionery on Bahnofstrasse for one of those hazelnut or bourbon vanilla cream-filled macarons they call Luxemburgerli – they're to die for!