There's French chocolate at the chocolatiers in Petit Bayonne, and smoked ham at the delis. There are tall, narrow buildings of the Basque kind, with dark timbers, lined up along the Nive and reflected in the river, and a boisterous festival with crowds attired in all-white, with red scarves worn and waving, a lot like in the Navarre in Spain. And if you stop to listen, you'll hear bursts of Basque, French and Gascon. What a treat!