Put away a few dollar-draft beers at the dive bars along the Riverside, traipse through a Khmer museum or a real Cambodian royal palace, catch a ride on a scooter taxi weaving between fender-to-fender two-wheeler traffic down Monivong Boulevard, or tuck into a bowl of dried Phnom Penh noodles at a street-food stand. And when you see that statue of Prince Sihanouk on horseback, know this: it's really Napoleon III whose head the Cambodians cut off and replaced with Sihanouk's. A big LOL!