You’ll want to walk over that beautifully arched, old stone bridge across the Neretva River and take pics and selfies from all angles; and see those shell-shocked, bullet-riddled buildings, from the war of the 90s, splashed in graffiti and blood-red scrawls; and linger in the cobbled lanes of the Old Bazar Kujundziluk, flanked by vendors selling handcrafted silver jewelry, copper pots and kettles, scenic paintings of the old town, souvenir mugs and tea sets, and this and that; and stop by one of the small, unpretentious restaurants or cafés there for some chicken-and-okra soup or Balkan-style kebabs or a serving of moussaka – yes, the one with those sliced eggplants sautéed in olive oil and layered with ground pork and Béchamel sauce. Oh, and if you go up into the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque on the banks of the Neretva, you'll get the grandest view of it all!