Pop over to Old San Juan and you'll be walking down narrow streets with blue cobblestones, flanked by colonial buildings with wrought-iron balconies and hardwood doors. There are bars there, stocked with not just Bacardi rum but every spirit under the sun. On Ashford Ave in Condado you'll find all the fashion brands and custom tailors, and designer jewelers to boot. And at the coastal seafood joints, those cheap, unadorned eateries known as "kioscos," you can tuck into deep-fried turnovers stuffed with shark meat they call pastelillos. And then there's all that Puerto Rican rhythm. Sweet.