Bring along a warm jacket, for it's a totally chill Himalayan city. There's Everest beer, Everest views, Everest treks and climbs. There are Indo-Chinese eyes all around, painted on stupas, on temples, on doorways, even peeping through those Bhairav festival masks. And if there's a tug on your sleeve while lingering in Thamel or Durbar Square, you know that someone's trying to sell you Nepali hash – just like in the hippie heyday!